Domaine de la Pinte Arbois Chardonnay 2014
Domaine de la Pinte Arbois Chardonnay 2014, 12.5%
(£16, Marks & Spencer)
OK, OK. So this Domaine de la Pinte Arbois Chardonnay isn’t for everyone.
For a start, it has Chardonnay on the label. That’ll put lots of people off. Then there’s the price, which makes it a special occasion wine. What’s more, it’s from the little-known Jura region of eastern France.
And then there’s the way it tastes… Let’s put it this way. If you prefer your wines to be elegant, discreet, shy and retiring – wallflowers of the wine world – then this one isn’t for you.
It’s delightfully pungent. If you like Fino sherry, or older champagne, or mushroom and truffle risotto, or fresh sourdough, then these kind of flavours will appeal to you. It’s yeasty, with baked apple and tangy citric flavours. Invigorating, mountain-fresh acidity underpins it all – and makes it brilliant with food, even richer flavours.
It’s something refreshingly different in a wine world that can seem worryingly monochrome at times. Which is worth raising a glass to. (Peter, 7-7.5/10, Sept 2016)