Fief Guérin Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie 2015

Fief Guérin Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie 2015, 12.5%, France

(£7.99, Waitrose or via Wine Searcher

Muscadet is enjoying a bit of a renaissance at the moment and this Fief Guérin is not only a pleasantly refreshing, saline-inflected rendition, it also makes a fine match for seafood. That’s why I recommended it as a partner for Adam Byatt’s brill with sea vegetables and ratte potato on Saturday Kitchen.

To be honest, the dish worked with a number of whites – so my advice was that, if you have a favourite white, then crack that open and enjoy familiar pleasures.

But being a bit more precise about things – tangy, refreshing whites work better here than the richer styles you might assume would make a more natural pairing. Precisely because these invigorating whites refresh the palate between mouthfuls (an under-estimated quality of wine) and brighten up those lovely salty, fishy, earthy flavours.

There’s a slight spritz to this wine, typical of Muscadet, which accentuates the freshness. But the sur lie ageing has imbued the wine with enough body to stand up to the creme fresh, chive oil and buttery mash.

I wasn’t sure how this one would go down in studio, to be honest, as the lighter, linear style of Muscadet can polarise reactions. But I shouldn’t have worried with the cultured palates of show host Michel Roux Jr and top chefs (and noted wine lovers) Tom Kitchin and Adam Byatt.

Adam described it as, ‘Lovely,’ with, ‘lots of acidity but creaminess to work with the sauce: great.’ Show guest Rachel Riley was a fan, as was Michel, who said: ‘Great match, well done Peter, bang on!’ Tom, meanwhile, commented: ‘Better get down quickly to the shops for this one because it will be selling out!’

Here’s to the Muscadet comeback!

(6.5/10, Peter, Dec 2016)