The above is a short taster of the full episode, which is now part of the Wine Blast archive. Wine Blast PLUS subscribers have exclusive access to the full archive as well as bonus content, early episode access and other benefits. To find out more or sign up, visit Wine Blast PLUS.

Summary

At one point, it looked like Covid was going to be the death-knell for Champagne.

And then…the bubbles bounced back. Big time.

But things aren’t quite the same as they were – in intriguing ways…

In this fascinating episode we catch up on all the latest hot topics from this famous and historic fine wine region in northern France with none other than legendary winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon of Louis Roederer (and Cristal).

And he tells us: ‘The 21st century is changing everything.’

So what exactly is the ‘new’ Champagne all about? On the one hand, it’s about admitting mistakes (sounds like the 60s and 70s have a lot to answer for). It’s also about risk and the potential rewards for pioneers.

We make sure to have a couple of glasses of delicious Champagne wines to hand – entirely for educational purposes, of course.

There’s talk of drinking glass pyramids, still wines, scallops, happiness, a tornado and the move from non-vintage to multi-vintage (yes, we do explain).

Life is too short for bland champagne! Do you agree?

Starring

• Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon of Champagne Louis Roederer
• Susie & Peter

Wines

• Louis Roederer Collection 242 Brut Champagne, 12% (£47-55, widely available inc Majestic and internationally)
• Bollinger La Côte Aux Enfants 2016 Coteaux Champenois, 12.5% (c £75, Berry Bros & Rudd, Hedonism, Farr Vintners and internationally)

Taster transcript

This transcript is AI generated. It’s not perfect.

Peter Richards MW 0:00

Hello, this is a short taster of an archive episode of Wine Blast. The full episode is available for Wine Blast PLUS subscribers. To sign up, just head to wineblast.co.uk or click the link in the show notes.

Susie Barrie MW 0:20

Hello, you’re listening to Wine Blast with me, Susie Barrie, and my husband and fellow Master of Wine, Peter Richards.

Peter Richards MW 0:27

You’re smiling already. You can’t help yourself, can you?!

Susie Barrie MW 0:30

I know, but I’m happy because this episode is all about champagne! Which, as you know, is one of my favourite subjects. One of my favourite wines.

Peter Richards MW 0:40

Yeah, you never were a cheap date… Um, I should have seen it coming early on, shouldn’t I? You know, so to all the boys out there, quickly, if your girlfriend is keen on champagne, or indeed, you know, if she’s something of an expert on the topic, maybe even a published author on it, you know, Susie Barrie. Uh it’s a clear warning sign, guys. There’s nothing wrong with it, but just beware.

Susie Barrie MW 0:56

Enough! I think I think that is harsh. I’m from Yorkshire, and if there’s one thing we know in Yorkshire, it’s how to be thrifty.

Peter Richards MW 1:03

Well, I can’t uh I can’t argue with that actually. It’s a bizarre mix. You are a bizarre mix.

Susie Barrie MW 1:06

Erm – it’s not just me who likes nice wine in the face in this household…

Peter Richards MW 1:11

Alright, fair enough. So coming up on this show, we have a fascinating and fun dive into all the very latest from Champagne. Uh, we explore the top trends at a pivotal time in the region’s development and talk about the new Champagne with superstar winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon from Louis Roederer.

Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon 1:29

This is a very exciting moment. Uh there is a risk for sure, but taking a risk is more rewarding in the end.

Susie Barrie MW 1:36

So, this is an intriguing moment in Champagne’s history and evolution. I mean, of course, it’s always had its ups and downs. Uh, there was the decimation of World War One. Uh, we then moved to the millennium high, and then the downturn after the financial crisis of 2008. But nothing has hit the region harder commercially than the COVID pandemic, when sales initially fell off the biggest cliff in the region’s history. Um and yet it’s rebounded with a gravity-defying performance in 2021. So we’re gonna look at all of that in a bit more detail and also ask what the future holds.

Peter Richards MW 2:16

Yeah, and of course, there are the bigger trends too, like global warming, how is that impacting the producers and the wines? Um and what about the growing focus on the vineyards and terroir, uh, things like organics, uh, all of which, you know, I think for many years were just not on Champagne’s radar at all. No. Um, there’s also a lot of uh what we might call diversification going on in terms of you know wine styles, for example, more and more still wines, which is really interesting. So we’re gonna be taking a look um at all of that and tasting a few along the way too. It’s always neat.

Susie Barrie MW 2:47

You’ve missed you’ve missed out one major highlight, haven’t you?

Peter Richards MW 2:50

Um remind me.

Susie Barrie MW 2:52

Come on. The new Guinness World Record for the and I quote ‘largest drinking glass pyramid.’

Peter Richards MW 3:00

Largest drinking glass pyramid!

Susie Barrie MW 3:01

Yeah. So this uh we can only describe it as a publicity stunt, uh can’t we? Uh but it saw 50, get this, 54,740 champagne coupes.

Peter Richards MW 3:15

Sounds like your average weekend, Susie Barrie!

Susie Barrie MW 3:16

Average in our house, of course. But stacked 8.23 metres high in a pyramid at where could it be? Well, of course, Atlantis the Palm Dubai. Um it was co-organised by Moet & Chandon , and it was uh a Jeroboam of their fizz that was poured in. I mean, can you imagine being the person who had to put a glass?! Apparently though they they use surgeons to stack the last few levels of glasses because of their steady hands. What about the the man pouring it or woman pouring it?

Peter Richards MW 3:50

You just wouldn’t want to sneeze near it, would you? You know, when that that goes up, you know. Equally, you know, you wouldn’t it’s a party. What about me if I, you know, if I’d started busting some of my signature dance moves? Some near the uh bit too near the pyramid, that could have been catastrophic too.

Susie Barrie MW 4:04

There’s no excuse for doing that anywhere. Never mind a pyramid…

EDIT BREAK

Susie Barrie MW 4:08

You know, when you add up what’s really going on in the new Champagne, it’s about a region that is fine-tuning its craft. Um, lots of people are making good sparkling wine around the world. So Champagne needs to focus on what makes it different and special, and that is fine wine, distinctive wine, you know, stylished, accomplished wine. Um, and that seems to be what’s happening right now. Um, you know, maybe accelerated ironically by the shock of the pandemic.

Peter Richards MW 4:36

Yeah, yeah. Interesting, interesting. Yeah, the new champagne. Although I do note in passing that Aldi’s affordable champagne, you know, the Veuve Monsigny at 14 quid, was the second biggest seller this Christmas in the UK after Moet, wasn’t it? So it’s not all about the fine fancy stuff, is it?

Susie Barrie MW 4:51

No no no. We all love a bargain.

Peter Richards MW 4:52

Especially in the UK. In the UK. Anyway, anyway, we must leave it there because I think time is up.

Susie Barrie MW 4:56

Yeah, but thank you to Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon of Louis Roederer, and thanks to you for listening. We’re back very soon, and we’ve got some fantastic new episodes lined up. So do not miss out. Make sure you subscribe wherever you get your podcasts and tune back in. Here’s to wine, and here’s to you. Cheers!