This episode is now part of the Wine Blast archive, which is available only to Wine Blast PLUS subscribers. To access the full archive plus exclusive bonus content, as well as enjoy early access to new episodes and other benefits, join Wine Blast PLUS.

Summary

How to make sense of Riesling? Food is one of the best ways we know to make sense of even the most tricky of wine subjects. So we try out a delicious monkfish and prawn curry as well as some pork terrine to try to get a handle on the grape variety that came top in our survey of the Best White Wine Grapes. (We also talk sourdough – but that’s something else entirely.)

Another way to make sense of wine is to talk to the people who make it. One man who embodies the spirit of Riesling more than perhaps anyone is German producer Ernst Loosen. His prodigious mind is a thing of beauty in full flow, and we’re treated to a masterclass of Riesling evangelism (and the odd profanity). We even give our top 3 Riesling tips at the end.

‘A hundred years ago Riesling was the most famous and expensive grape even in England. But we lost sight of our traditions…’ Ernst Loosen

Running Order

• Introduction: 0 – 10.50
• Interview with Ernst Loosen: 10.51 – 18.27
• Tasting with Ernst Loosen: 18.28 – 25.56
• Talking Riesling and food: 25.57 – 29.40
• END: 31.12

‘A lot of people think German Riesling has traditionally been sweet. Not so! In Mosel we always had both styles. My great grandfather only made dry wines.’ Ernst Loosen

Starring

• Ernst Loosen
• Susie and Peter

‘For me, a great wine needs ageing potential. If it’s dead after two or three years, it’s not a great wine, why should I pay all that money?!’ Ernst Loosen

Featured wines

• Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Grosses Gewaches 2017 Alte Reben, 12.5% (£36, Pull The Cork, Harrogate Fine Wine, Ex-Cellar)
• Schloss Schönborn Riesling Hattenheim Pfaffenberg trocken 2011, 13.5% (£21, Corney & Barrow)

Recipe

Monkfish and king prawn curry

This has to be one of our all-time favourite curries. The combination of fruity tamarind, creamy coconut milk, fragrant spices, tangy tomatoes and aromatic coriander is heavenly. The meaty texture of the monkfish is ideal, as are the king prawns, all holding together perfectly and delivering the most satisfyingly luxurious flavours and texture. The recipe is adapted from a Jo Pratt dish.

Selected recipes are available for Wine Blast PLUS subscribers

Notes

• After our shortest EVER episode last time, this time we revert to a format which is easier on the digestion.
• We also apologise for skipping a week. Sorry! We have excuses…
• On which note, there is talk of sourdough in this episode. Sorry again. We blame that Edd Kimber, The Boy Who Bakes
• This episode features the phrase, ‘peak lockdown’. In the same sentence as ‘sourdough’ and ‘Ribolla Gialla’.
• Ernst Loosen’s grandfather defined success in the wine business as being able to take an after-lunch nap every day. He was also a devotee of a glass of Riesling at 4pm sharp every day in his library.
• Erni has a private cellar with more than 10,000 bottles. No wonder he finds it hard making up his mind as to which is his favourite.
• If you think traditional German whites are sweet, listen to this episode. It offers a fascinating correction.
• Also discussed are: Australia, Latour 1985 and Riesling’s ‘disaster’ years

Have your say

Review our show